The Productive Vegetable Garden

The exact layout of the vegetable garden is determined by the size and shape of the land available, but do make sure it is big enough to allow the rotation of the four main groups of vegetables - legumes (peas and beans), root crops, brassicas and members of the onion (allium) family. It is wise to grow these on different parts of the plot in successive years to prevent the build-up of diseases and pests. It's an age-old practice, but it does pay dividends and helps to keep the soil in good heart.

There are other advantages to using a rotational system. For example, some crops such as potatoes smother the soil and prevent weed emergence. So follow potatoes with crops which are relatively difficult to weed, such as onions. Potatoes and other root crops such as parsnips and carrots also help maintain an open soil structure and keep the land aerated. Most peas and beans fix nitrogen in the soil via their root nodules and provide food for following crops. It is therefore a good idea to follow these legumes with crops which require plenty of nitrogen, such as brassicas, spinach and potaoes.

Some vegetables, notably perennial ones and many salad crops do not fall readily into the four main groups. Salad crops such as lettuce, radish and spring onions are only in the ground for a short while, so these are ideal for sowing between rows of slower growing vegetables - a practice known as inter-cropping. Perennial crops such as asparagus and seakale, which seems to be coming back into vogue, are best grown in a permanent bed of their own as they cannot by their nature be part of the rotation.

To get the most from your vegetable plot, try making a simple table with a column for every month of the year. In each row, write the name of all the crops you wish to grow and then tick the months in which they are likely to be in the ground. This period can be shortened by raising young plants in modules, a practice especially good for brassicas, courgettes, sweet corn and runner beans, or lengthened by giving early and late season cloche or fleece protection. Remember that some crops, such as parsnips, sweet corn and spring cabbages are generally only sown once a year, but that many others, such as carrots, peas, lettuces and spinach, can be sown successionally every three to four weeks for a continuity of supply through many weeks and even months.

Allocate each section of the plot to one of the four rotational groups and then decide the single most important crop for each area. Look at your chart and decide upon a suitable crop to precede and follow it. For example, if leeks are cleared from the garden in March, follow these alliums with carrots, parsnips and potatoes, all of which can be sown and planted during this month. It may take a bit of juggling at times, but it really is worth a little thought as it will help to maximise the output from your new plot. Work on the basis that most pieces of land will only bear two crops a year. While it is good to have a plan, there are factors such as weather and the condition of the soil, particularly in the early part of the year, that can make a mockery of the best laid plans. Be prepared to be flexible and adjust your timings accordingly.

So much for the theory and planning. What is even more important in the next few weeks is the preparation of the plot ready for taking the first crops next spring. So much depends on the current condition of the site. If it is full of established, perennial weeds, these will need to be removed by careful forking over, shaking out and disposal of all parts of the plants. Most perennial weeds are best not added to the compost heap, as it is always possible they may re-establish when the compost is returned to the garden. It is never easy to remove all perennial weeds at one go because most require only a small piece of root to remain in the ground to allow them to re-grow. It is an on-going battle, but an important one to keep winning!

Once the weeds have been removed, there is even more hard work required - in the form of digging. This is best carried out during a dry spell in late autumn or early winter, and its purpose is to give the soil a crumbly and aerated structure next spring by leaving the upturned clods and lumps exposed to the effects of winter frosts and rains. When dealing with a brand new plot which has not grown vegetables before, it is best to dig out a trench about 1ft wide and to the depth of the length of the blade of your spade, often referred to as a "spit". The soil from this trench at the front of the plot should be taken to the back of the plot. Soil from the next row should be dug out and turned over into the trench in front and roughly broken up.

If you have any well-rotted farmyard manure or home-made compost, shake some into the bottom of the trench before turning over the soil, as this will improve both the structure and fertility of the land, giving most vegetables a great start next spring. The exception to this rule are root crops, as parsnips and carrots are liable to "fork" or "fang" in freshly manured soil. When you reach the back of the plot, fill the final trench with the soil transported from the front. In subsequent years, it is often enough just to dig the plot simply by turning every spit back on itself without this trenching process, especially on lighter soils.

I hope I have not put anyone off the idea of starting a productive vegetable garden with the prospect of what seem like many hours of back-breaking work. Digging is a physical occupation, but it is also excellent exercise, and if you remember to bend with your legs rather than with your back you should not need a visit to the doctor when you have finished.

A much easier and much more relaxing part of starting the vegetable plot is to sit down with the latest batch of seed catalogues and to start choosing which varieties you will have the pleasure of growing next season. Many modern vegetable varieties are F1 hybrids, and while their seed is more expensive than that of older, open-pollinated strains, they have many benefits such as increased vigour, improved disease resistance and higher yields. They really do give impressive results, but there are also many tried and trusted varieties which date back to the Victorian era, which have stood the test of time. The decision is yours, but you are bound to enjoy making your choices and anticipating next year's harvest!